DIY or technical thread

[Huat Zai]

 

[The_King]

https://www.facebook.com/watch?v=311010527722697

[Huat Zai]

7 hours ago, The_King said:

https://www.facebook.com/watch?v=311010527722697

Seen this in a hotel toilet once, damn line was all moldy, ended up using a chair.

[The_King]

12 minutes ago, Huat Zai said:

Seen this in a hotel toilet once, damn line was all moldy, ended up using a chair.

The metal bar outside HDB is the best

[Huat Zai]

 

[Huat Zai]

 

[chamfer]

 

[chamfer]

 

[The_King]

How to Soften Butter Quickly

 

1. The Old-School Way

Good For: Any recipe in which the softened butter is added gradually.

 

 

Cut a stick of cold butter into 1/2 tablespoon slices (or smaller—the smaller, the faster). Place the slices in a single layer on a plate while you assemble and measure whatever other ingredients you need for your recipe. By the time you get everything together—unless you live inside an arctic front—the butter should be soft enough to continue.

2. The Fun Way

Good For: Getting it done quickly, and working out any pent-up frustration.

 

Place a stick of butter in a zip-top bag. Using a rolling pin or the back of a heavy mixing spoon, beat the butter until it's a flat disc—or amoeba, or whatever shape your butter decides it wants to be. The thinner you pound the butter, the quicker the butter will reach room temp.

3. The Hands-Off Way

Good For: Anyone who just, you know, doesn't have time to deal with this right now, okay?

 

Cut a stick of cold butter into pieces and put the pieces in a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment and beat on medium-low. After 2 to 3 minutes, scrape down the sides of the bowl, then beat for another 2 to 3 minutes. The butter should be soft enough to proceed now—and it's already in the mixer!

4. The In-Shape Way

Good For: Those times you need soft butter, but you want it still in stick-form.

Place a stick of butter in a zip-top bag. Seal the bag, squeezing out as much air as possible. Place the bag into a dish of tepid water so that the butter is completely submerged. (It will float, but that's okay.) You may use water that's a little warmer than room temperature, but be careful to not go too hot, otherwise the outside of the butter will melt while leaving the interior icy cold. Depending on the heat of your water, the butter should be ready in about 5 to 7 minutes.

[chamfer]

 

[The_King]

https://www.facebook.com/watch/?v=520474959607040

[chamfer]

 

[The_King]

https://www.facebook.com/watch?v=1451932455222357

[chamfer]

 

[chamfer]

 

[The_King]

https://worldofbuzz.com/msian-shares-how-he-maintains-rm70-electricity-bill-at-home-despite-having-6-air-conditioners/

 

 

 

 

any true in this?

 

5. Pull out your plugs after using your electrical tools 

Here’s something we’re all guilty of forgetting to do. It may seem like no big deal to leave your plugs in the wall socket when you’re not using them but according to Fawwaz, electricity rates can be reduced by RM15-RM50!

 

Source: Fawwaz Johari | Facebook

 

While the savings rate still depends on the type of house you live in and the kind of electrical appliances you use, it’s still a great tip to cut costs on your electricity bill. “To get more savings, you can also remove the ‘wifi’ plug in your home at night when everyone is sleeping at not using it.

[The_King]

If An Appliance Is Plugged Into the Wall, But Turned Off, Is It Using Electricity?

 

We can all agree that times are tight and saving money is more important than ever. People are looking for small ways to cut their costs, such as driving less, picking up groceries instead of eating, and reducing luxury purchases. However, some people claim that hundreds of dollars in energy costs can be saved by pulling appliances off the wall when not in use.

This idea of plug-in appliances that suck electricity even when they are “off” or not in use has generated a lot of debate, so is it true? Do electrical appliances passively consume electricity even when they are not in use?

The short answer?

Yes and no…

 

Differences in the devices

Many people assume that a plugged-in device, when not in use, will not consume electricity. If it does not “work,” then it should not consume electricity either, right?

Many devices, such as a table lamp or radio, are turned off, but not all devices. Chargers are one of the main concerns and are perhaps the most prominent “energy vampires” in your home.

 

 

Many people have multiple devices such as laptops, tablets, and smartphones in our modern age, all of which need to be constantly charged to keep us connected. This has led to multiple chargers being left at home, and the office is often plugged into the wall with the cord conveniently waiting for the next time your phone needs some juice.

Chargers continuously draw power from an outlet, even if your device is not connected. Although this amount could be as little as 25 watts, imagine that over 4-5 devices combined for a year consume more energy than you passively consume.

Another common way to lose energy is to connect a device to a charger after it is already fully charged. This careless practice can consume up to ten times more passive energy without any added benefit!

Cable boxes, Apple TVs, Xbox consoles, and any other modern application of this kind also result in constant power consumption. While it isn’t that realistic to unplug the cable box every time you turn off the television, these devices often wait in a “standby mode”, constantly drawing power so they can snap to attention and activity at the touch of a button. Furthermore, running a constant router and cable box 24×7 is foolish if you don’t spend that much time online!

Power strips are great devices for controlling the flow of power to large groups of objects, but if the power strip stays on all the time, it can also unnecessarily tap electricity and add to your bill.

 

How Many Clocks Do You Really Need?

One of the easiest to overlook energy phantoms comes in the form of your digital clocks and displays. Many of our devices maintain digital displays that light up with time, from coffee machines and bedside alarm clocks to the DVD player in your family room.

Lighting these LED displays is also a small, constant burden on your power supply, but it’s very easy to ignore these energy vampires.

While it would be time-consuming and frustrating to turn off all of these devices each time you use them, the less frequently used devices should be disconnected.

How Can You Save Energy?

There is no clear solution to the problem of energy vampires, but there are many ways to find out what devices use phantom power and try to reduce consumption. There are even products that you can buy, so-called electricity meters, where you can test which devices in your home are sucking this unused power out of your walls and increasing your energy bills.

 

Electricity Usage Meter (Photo Credit: treehugger.com)

 

Look for Energy Star Ratings

Another good thing to do is to look for the Energy Star label on many products, which certifies that they are energy-efficient and do not draw phantom power; this certification is available for chargers and transformers, two of the main culprits of energy waste. Certain power strips are also being developed to detect when an energy need is present, and if the device is not connected, no power will be drawn.

These tiny increments of energy may not seem significant. Still, we’re in the midst of a green revolution, so saving a few hundred watts a year per person across an entire continent will definitely start adding up. Depending on the products and your current usage habits, you might be able to save anywhere from a few dollars to hundreds of dollars on your energy bills each year.

So to answer the original question, some devices draw phantom energy that can add up over time. Being informed and conscientious about what you plug in and how long you’re leaving it there can help you save money and protect the environment at the same time.

https://www.scienceabc.com/eyeopeners/appliance-plugged-wall-socket-turned-off-electricity-usage-trickle-charge.html

[chamfer]

 

[The_King]

[The_King]

https://www.mentalfloss.com/article/641153/how-stop-running-toilet-without-calling-plumber

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

It can be a little disconcerting to hear your toilet run when no one has been in the bathroom recently. Rather than assume some kind of paranormal pooper is the culprit, it may be time to investigate the issue yourself. Fortunately, there are ways to stop a running toilet without having to pay a plumber. Here’s how.

1. Check the fill tube.

When you hear water “running” in your toilet, it’s typically because a problem exists inside the tank. Toilets work by measuring how much water is in the tank using a float. When the water drops below a certain level—like after a flush—the fill valve connected to the water line (that flexible hose leading into the toilet tank) allows water in so the tank is filled back up for the next flush. If the fill valve, float, or flapper (the seal that moves when you operate the handle, letting water out and into the bowl) are malfunctioning, water will leave the tank, drop the water level, and cause the water line to run in order to keep it filled. (You can visualize all the tank parts in the above video.)

You’ll first want to check the fill valve for issues. Examine the fill tube, which is the plastic tube that runs from the fill valve on the left side of the tank to the overflow tube on the right. Make sure it’s attached tightly to the fill valve and that water is going from the valve, through the tube, and into the overflow pipe. (The tube shouldn’t extend into the pipe.) The fill valve should be seated slightly higher than the overflow tube to let gravity get the water into the tube. If it’s too long, you can trim it so it’s not extending into the pipe.

2. Check the float.

The float is the plastic part shaped a little like a cup on the fill valve that lets the valve know when the water level is correct. If it’s set too high, water goes into the overflow tube and the water will keep running. If it’s too low, the flapper will stay open. Adjust the float using the attached rod, clip, or screw until the water shuts off at the proper level—usually marked on the inside of the tank or the overflow tube.

3. Check the handle.

The exterior handle of the toilet is attached to the flush rod, which is easily identifiable inside the tank: It’s the piece of plastic connected to a chain that leads to the flapper. If the chain is too short, it may prevent the flapper from closing and making a seal, which would allow water to leak into the bowl. If it’s too long, it might not let the flapper remain open to let the water out. (This wouldn’t cause the toilet to run, but it’s still a problem, as you want the bowl to refill.)

Make sure the chain has just enough slack to open the flapper and that the flush rod isn’t hitting the inside of the tank lid when you flush.

4. Check the flapper.

The flapper can be the source of many running toilet issues. If it doesn’t create a proper seal, water will leak from the tank into the bowl, causing the water line to run to make up for the dropping water level inside the tank.

While you can examine other parts of the tank without emptying it, looking at the flapper will require you to drain it. Shut off the water coming into the toilet using the shut-off valve—usually a few turns to the right until you feel resistance—then flush. Without the water source, the tank will empty into the bowl without refilling. Sponge any remaining water from the tank, then take a look at the flapper. If the rubber seal is cracked or it’s otherwise not sitting properly, it’s worn and needs to be replaced.

This is extremely simple to do. You can take your old flapper to a hardware store and have someone assist you in selecting a replacement, or you can simply pick up one of the universal replacement flappers that should fit most toilets. (While this works most of the time, some toilets may have an odd size flapper.) To remove the old flapper, just unclip it from the flush rod chain and overflow tube. To replace it, use the same steps.

5. Replace everything except the toilet.

If you’ve followed these steps and the toilet still runs, you’ve got a problem somewhere along the entire flush system. The best thing is to simply replace the fill valve, flapper, and all accompanying parts. This isn’t difficult. Hardware stores will have universal flush repair kits that are inexpensive (under $15) and easy to install if you follow the included directions. The only wrinkle is that in order to seat the new flapper properly, you’ll have to remove the tank from the toilet as well as make sure you get a good, tight seal between the fill valve and the water line. Trust us that watching someone do this, as in the video above, is the easiest way to understand it. Above all else, make sure you turn off the water before you begin any work.

If your running toilet persists after replacing the flush components, you’ve got yourself a job for a plumber. But in the vast majority of cases, one or more of the steps outlined above will resolve the issue. And if you have a toilet clog, there are some steps you can take for that, too.

[The_King]

 

[Huat Zai]

 

[The_King]

[chamfer]

 

[Huat Zai]